The Lakes of Ardales, officially known as the ‘Embalses’ of El Chorro, and also the ‘Pantanos del Conde del Guadalhorce’, are known more simply by the ‘Brits’ as the local Lake District! You can access them from the main A357 Malaga to Campillos road, or by peaceful country lanes with some marvellous open views from the Campillos area. Whichever way you come, the change of scenery from dry and arid to lush and green is startling. The winding main road takes you round the shores of the three main lakes.

I visited them recently with family, and we very quickly found ourselves at the first popular stopping place. Hikers clad in suitable trekking gear piled out of cars. There were families with picnic boxes and young couples on a romantic day out. As we stepped out of the car we felt immediately the freshness of the air, redolent with the scent of pine trees. Looking up, the hillsides above the lakes are clad in sweet smelling umbrella pines, their delicate green colour shimmering against the luminous blue of the sky. There is a real ‘holiday’ feel about this place. Two colourful cafés line the side of the road, selling the usual snacks and refreshments, specialities and souvenirs. Relax over a meal on the upper terraces and you can enjoy the wonderful views across the turquoise lakes.

Feeling refreshed by the bracing air, we drove on and began to look for a suitable ‘beach’ where we could picnic and sunbathe. Eventually we found one, and after a fairly steep climb down through pine trees, scrub and roots we were rewarded with a perfect setting. Blue tranquil water, glittering in the hot sun, and utter peacefulness. The only sounds were the happy voices of a few other visitors echoing across the lake, punctuated by the ’singing’ sound of tourist planes, as they glided gracefully across the blue sky on their way into Malaga airport.
Having enjoyed a delicious makeshift picnic, we dozed in the hot October sun.

After a while my brother decided to explore. He had seen one or two pedaloes on the lake. Sure enough, round a corner we found them, at 12 euros an hour below the Mirador bar restaurant! We spent an idyllic hour drifting around the lake, exploring inlets and hidden coves, and feeling the intense heat of the sun reflecting off the water. An occasional fish jumped with a splash out of the water, but apart from that nothing broke the spell! My brother enjoyed pedalling around the lake, while his wife and I relaxed. We took photos, and video films and our trip was the high spot of a delightful day.

Finally back on shore we climbed up the hillside towards the Mirador cafe-restaurant, responsible for organising the pedaloes in the Summer months. It nestles on two levels, right above the lake. It is ‘rocky’ and rustic in style, and typically Andalucian with the smell of wood burning fires and a choice of fabulous food. You can sit there and relax, gazing out at the spectacular views and take your photos while you enjoy a drink, snack or a meal. Driving round the shores of the lakes you realise that this is a real holiday destination, mostly enjoyed by the Spanish. There is a well-established campsite here with all amenities, which is currently being improved and renovated ready for re-opening next season.

Retracing our route, we started to descend the road and head back home. But not before we had noticed the wonderful house built out on a promontory on the lake. It has large gardens with a white pergola, and steps going right down to the water’s edge! Apparently it was built around 1914 by an engineer called Rafael Benjumea Burín, who was responsible for designing the hydroelectric ‘preso’ or dam, built between 1914 and 1921. Needless to say the house is private, but most definitely worth a photo! Nowadays it is used mainly for meetings of the directors and technicians concerned with the management and maintenance of the hydro-electrics. This dam not only generates the electricity for the whole of the Malaga province, it also adds a spectacular and very impressive dimension to any walk around the lakes!

Stop the car, and have a walk along the road and over the dam. Admire the view and enjoy the sound of the cascading water. Take your photos, and look out for the wildlife which abounds around the lakes. Orchids grow in this area. If you’re lucky, you may even see a ‘buitre leonardo’, a marvellous large golden vulture with a head resembling a lion! You can also see a smaller species of vulture, called ‘alimoche’ (Egyptian vulture), and maybe even a ‘caribú’, which is a type of deer. All in all, a true nature lover’s paradise!

The lakes of Ardales make a wonderful day out. They are the ‘jewel in the crown’ of Ardales itself. Don’t miss them!