The town of Rute might not be on your ‘must visit’ list but maybe, when you see what the town has to offer, that could change.
You will find Rute in the province of Cordoba in Andalucia equidistant from the cities of Cordoba, Granada and Seville and bordering the beautiful Sierras Subbética Natural Park, one of the best birdwatching areas in Spain. From the town of Rute el Viejo there are some spectacular views across the Iznajár reservoir.
Roman remains have been found nearby, but the original town of Rute el Viejo was settled by the Moors in the 13th century when they built a fortress to try to protect the town from the frequent battles with the Christian armies. Over the following century it passed from Moors to Christians and back again several times until finally in 1433 it was conquered by the Christian army of John 11. The town was badly damaged and the population had dwindled during the battles so it was moved to a more accessible location close by and gradually repopulated. The remains of the old fortress can still be seen at Rute el Viejo which is just 3kms from the town of Rute we see today.
The town is divided into two areas the ‘alto’ is the upper neighbourhood and the ‘bajo’ is the lower. It’s layout is typically Moorish with narrow cobbled streets packed with whitewashed houses. Some streets are so steep that they have steps across them and a ruined Moorish tower keeps watch on the proceedings below. The town also follows the Cordoban tradition of plant filled patios and balconies bursting with pots of colourful geraniums.
Rute is usually visited for it’s gastronomical pleasures – it is not historically memorable although there is a scattering of churches and monuments around that can be visited. These include in Rute Alto the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi where the Virgen de la Cabeza is venerated; the parish church of the patron saint Santa Catalina dating from around 1730; the Baroque chapel of San Sebastián and the oldest shrine dating from the 16th century, the Sanctuary of Vera Cruz.
The May Cross celebration take place in the old Vera Cruz neighbourhood and the whole place is decked out in flowers. Rute’s large main square is surrounded by palms and at Christmas time is beautifully lit-up.
The town is renowned for many tasty treats, sweets and pastries made from old recipes using nougat, marzipan, chocolate and liquers.
Rute has been distilling it’s special sweet and dry anis and other liquers since the 17th century and the four rooms at the distillery are set aside as a museum old machinery and tools on display. During the Christmas period especially, the town is buzzing with visitors buying their special mantecados ( a shortbread type of cake made with lard or olive oil and flavoured with a liquer), boxes of chocolates, and special liquers, all produced locally. For those chocaholics out there, a Christmas visit is a must when all the manufacturers go overboard with what they can do with chocolate – and the chocolate Nativity Scene is absolutely fabulous.
The climate of the area is also perfect for natural curing of the local Jamón (ham) and production of several other pork products such as morcilla that are on sale everywhere in town. (All of these products are on sale throughout the year but the Christmas atmosphere is special)
We shouldn’t forget that Rute is also in the centre of a huge olive growing region that produces some of the best fruit and oil in the world. Harvest begins around November so there will be activity at the local mills and in the groves which is always interesting to watch. The town shops will have locally produced olives and oil on sale. Who can resist?
Apart from monuments and gastronomy, Rute is also home to a wonderful Donkey Sanctuary located on the outskirts of the town in cool pine woods.
ADEBO is the association that runs the sanctuary for abused and neglected donkeys and works very hard to care for and eventually re-home the animals wherever possible. It is a non-profit making charity who is also involved in the protection of the Andalusian Cordoba race of donkey which is nearing extinction. Telephone 957 532 032
FIESTAS & FERIAS
Semana Santa Easter week celebrations
Cruces de Mayo first few days of May
Romeria de la Virgen de la Cabeza 2nd Sunday in May
Feria Real de Rute during last days of August
The MUSEUMS listed below are well worth visiting to appreciate the social and historical background of the town and see how local produce has been made over the decades. All the museums have shops attached where you can buy anything that takes your fancy.
MUSEUMS
Museo del Anís, (Anis museum and distillery)
Paseo del Fresno 2 tel 957 538 143
E mail: info@destileriaduende.com
Open Mon-Fri 9-2 and 5-7 Sat 10-2
Oct/Nov/Dec Open 7 days
Museo Artesanal de Mantecado, Turrón y Marzapán
Ctra Lucena km 18.7 tel 957 538 341
www.productosgarrido.com
Open Mon-Fri 9-2 and 5-9
Summer months, mornings only
Christmas period, open every day selling traditional Spanish Christmas
Sweets made of nougat, almonds and marzipan.
Museo de Mantecado (delicious pastries made from lard or olive oil)
Calle Malaga 32 tel 957 538 661
E mail: info@laflorderute.es
Only open Oct/Nov/Dec every day 9-2 and 5-8
Casa Museo del Jamon (Ham museum)
Ntra Sra de la Cabeza 5, tel 957 538 346
Open Mon-Fri 9-2 and 5-8 Sat 9-2
Belen de Chocolate (Chocolate Nativity Scene)
Ctra Lucena Loja km 18
Tel 957 532 836
Open Christmas period only
RUTE TOURIST OFFICE 957 532 929
HOW TO GET THERE
From Malaga take the route to Antequera, turn off at Villanueva de Tapia and Iznajár to reach Rute.
4 Responses
Jennifer Cotter
September 28th, 2008 at 1:22 am
1Hi I’m wondering if you are the Vivien Pelmore I knew many years ago. Do you live in Mijas with your folks and are British
Jen
vivien pelmore
September 28th, 2008 at 3:39 pm
2Hello, Yes this is me but I am afraid your surname doesn’t ring a bell unless you are Jenny from Malaga with a new surname!!!
Vivien
Christine
October 28th, 2008 at 11:18 pm
3Hi there. You make Rute sound fascinating in many areas. I would like to take a party of about 35 people for a Christmas treat. Do you know if it is necessary to book for tours of the museums etc. Do you know, if I phone, if they will understand English? My spanish is a bit basic!
Jennifer Cotter
November 2nd, 2008 at 2:03 am
4Hi Viv,
Yes I used to live with you in Gerona. Wow this is great. I now live in Tennessee. e-mail me at ..jenadler1949@comcast.net. I’d love to hear what is going on in your life.
Love Jen
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