The white town of Olvera is situated very conveniently for would-be visitors, right on the A382 road, about 40 km from Campillos en route to Jerez; or as an ideal second stop on a day trip by car to Ronda, it is only 35km north-east of the town following the A376 Seville road until the A382 junction at Algodonales.

The road out of Campillos is pretty enough but largely unremarkable until, after the last of a series of sharp bends and twists has been safely negotiated, the town itself comes into view. Perched majestically on top of a pinnacle with 360 degree visibility, the distinctive yellow and red stonework of the Iglesia de la Encarnación church is immediately apparent, almost as if providing a signature for the town. The church is both large and impressive, hiding behind its mass one of the region´s best museums, and sitting adjacent to the moorish fortress which, recently renovated, is itself one of the finest examples in the province. The citadel is surrounded by the typical tumbling terraces of the casas blancas which fall with no discernible pattern almost back down to the roadside. It really is a very photogenic location and images of its many facets will sit proudly in any visitor´s photo album.

The town has its historical roots in an area which has fallen to many conquerors over the centuries, including the Visigoths, the Romans and later the Moors. It was they who, in the 9th century, began to build the town on what must have been the most obviously defensible site for many miles around, and it stood unchallenged until being taken back by the Christians led by Alfonso XI in the early 1300´s. During the 1800´s the town was so far outside the reach of the authorities that it gained notoriety as a haven for bandits and was immortalised in an Andalusian saying ” Kill your man and flee to Olvera”. Happily, the locals are less controversial these days, preferring to concentrate their collective attention on the many thousands of Olive trees which make up the mainstay of the town´s commercial base.

The town´s modern popularity and appeal as a tourist destination stems from a remarkable piece of good fortune back in the the 1920´s. In a period of economic hardship, the government of the time decided that Olvera should become the key station on a new railway track to be built between Almargen and the prosperous sherry town of Jerez. For a few years only, Olvera found itself in the centre of a railway ´boom´, although sadly the line was never finished. However, it´s trackbed left behind the perfect flat foundations for today´s main rural tourism attraction - the Via Verde walking and cycling route.

The Via Verde is one of Andalucia´s most enjoyable and accessible outdoor routes. Running from Olvera to Puerto Serrano it has six viaducts, over twenty tunnels - most with lights, but not all, so take a torch - two restaurants and a small hotel in the lovely building which originally housed the railway station at Olvera. Car parking is easy and bikes and even horses can be hired at either end of the route. Wheelchair users should be able to cope with the route as it is mainly flat with a tarmac surface in places, although there are some troughs and dips which may require assistance. On the Via Verde however, the real pleasure is in walking the entire 38km (just under 24 miles). If this distance is prohibitive, you could drive to Coripe to join the route,from which point the distance is only 26km, and Coripe also has the benefit of a restaurant and bar.

Overall, the going is fairly easy, but if you want to complete the entire route, the distance involved will probably mean organising transport back to your starting point from whichever end of the route you decide to finish. It is a full day´s walk so you may also want to plan an overnight stay, as those stiff limbs will need a good soak afterwards - both inside and out! However, the rewards are manifold; the panoramic views of the farmland, mountains, valleys and forests are breathtaking and you will be enjoying a part of Andalusia that few others will have seen. The Via Verde is a walking experience you will treasure for a long time to come.

Visitors to Olvera will be made welcome at any of the town´s three hotels. We stayed at the Sierra y Cal (tel: +34 956 130 503) which was immaculate and very reasonably priced. There are also several typical bars and restaurants in the town; try the media paletilla de cordero at La Bodega - superb quality and great value.

One last thing! Don´t expect to hear much English being spoken in Olvera - this is real Andalucia, not the Costa del Sol!