A recent British television drama portrayed the life of the pre-eminent food writer, Elizabeth David. She travelled widely in Southern Europe before and during the Second World War, returning to England in 1946, and a few years later published her seminal cookery book “Mediterranean Food”. In a scene set during this period of post-war rationing and dreary food she is shown in a chemist shop (not a grocery store) purchasing olive oil. The assistant is surprised that Miss David wants half a dozen of the tiny bottles, and it soon becomes apparent that at this time in UK olive oil was regarded by most people as a treatment for earache, certainly not as a luxury dressing for their meagre salads or a healthy frying medium.

Well, the British may have caught up a little since the 1940s but still have a long way to go to match consumption in Spain which itself is responsible for some 30% of world production. Around half of this comes from Andalucia.

It was the Phoenicians who introduced the olive tree to Spain around 1050BC and soon production was satisfying not only local demand but also that of other Mediterranean countries. With the arrival of the Romans output was intensified and Spain became the major olive oil supplier to the Roman Empire. The Moors also brought improvements in production and became so closely associated with the oil that during the “reconquest” Christians belittled it, and with the rise of Catholic fundamentalism consumption of pork became an expression of faith so the preferred cooking medium was lard. Understandably, this attitude did not prevail for long and production has steadily increased leading to today’s industrial scale output.

Spanish olive oil is categorised in four distinct quality classes as established by the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC). These are:

1. Virgin/Aceite de Oliva Virgen – a completely natural product. Within this class are four distinct quality levels:

Extra: of greatest epicurean value for its flavour. Acidity must not exceed 0.8%. Drizzled on salads or added at the table to soups and stews; also for dipping.

Virgin/Virgen: Acidity must not exceed 2%. Not as highly prized for flavour as Extra but used in the same ways.

Ordinary/Corriente: Acidity must not exceed 3.3%. May still be fine for frying or where flavour is not wanted or needed.

Lampante: Acidity exceeding 3.3%. Not fit for consumption, it is intended for refining or to be used for technical purposes.

2. Refined/Refinado - obtained from virgin olive oils by refining methods. Acidity must not exceed 0.3%.

3. Olive Oil/Aceite de Oliva - consists of a blend of refined olive oil and virgin olive oils fit for consumption as they are. Acidity must not exceed 1%.

4. Olive Pomace Oil/Aceite de Orujo - this is the ground flesh and pits after pressing; considered an inferior grade and is used for soap manufacture or industrial purposes

In Spain and in particular in Andalucia olive oil is the keystone of the cuisine. Breakfast for many consists of olive oil drizzled on toast along with coffee. Later it will be poured on salad, added to stews and is an essential of gazpacho soup recipe. It is used to fry almost anything and is an ingredient in many Spanish pastries and desserts.