With a population of approximately 2,000, Ojén is one of the closest white villages to the coast, and remains relatively unspoilt. Situated only ten minutes from Marbella, with excellent road access, this traditional village clings to the hillside above the valley of the Rio Real.

The name ´Ojén´ is derived from the Arabic word, hoxán, which means a bitter or rough place. The Moors established a settlement here, and the village survived the Christian embargo on Moors living too close to the sea after the reconquest.

At an altitude of 650 feet, most of the houses boast fabulous views down to Marbella and the Mediterranean in the distance, and the village is hemmed in by the surrounding mountains. This may give us a clue as to why the Moors stayed so long – both mountain ranges have been known as rich sources of nickel, iron and lead for many centuries. Mineral wealth in this area put it at the forefront during the Spanish industrial revolution during the 19th century.

We last visited Ojén earlier this year, and we decided to stay the night at the Hosteria Don José, at the top of the village. We had visited here before with friends who lived in the village, and remembered fondly the warm welcome we received from the owner, Isabel. This is a traditional family run hostal, and the owners live on the top floor. There are only 6 rooms here, all with heating and some with terrace. The rustic interiors are very attractive and great emphasis is put on comfort and hospitality. The dining room offers a fabulous buffet breakfast, and the upper bedrooms boast great views down to the coast. Isabel is Spanish, and is an artist and a poet, in addition to owning the hostal. She speaks fluent English, French and some German, and makes everyone feel welcome. A double room is only €60 and within easy walking distance of the restaurants in the village (although it is a steep climb on the way back).
For further information or reservation at the Hosteria Don José, you can contact Isabel on: 0034 952 881147. E-mail: reservations@lahosteriadedonjose.com Website: www.lahosteriadedonjose.com

There is not much left of the old Moorish castle, and it is hardly worth the trek up to see it, but there are plenty of other attractions in Ojén. The old part of the village is made up of cobbled streets which seem to get narrower the further you explore. Drinking fountains are conveniently situated in the streets, and there are plenty of bars and cafés to stop off at.

The Church of La Encarnación is well worth a visit. The impressive 16th century church was built over an old mosque, and the original minaret now forms part of the church spire and bell tower. The interior boasts a single nave with a beautifully decorated timber ceiling.

Ojén was once famous for something a little stronger than water. The production of the anise liqueur, aguardiente, which many Spaniards take each day with their morning coffee, once played a major part in the town’s economy. The Malaga Wine Museum is now situated at the old site of the aguardiente distillers, and is open to visitors every dary in Summer from 11am-3pm and 6pm-10pm and Winter from 11am-3pm and 4pm-8pm. Telephone: 0034 95 288 1453 for more information.

We had dinner at the Bodega de Ojen, which is situated on the main C/Carrera which runs through the village. We were seated on the attractive terrace area and enjoyed a feast of Castilian dishes, plus a superb bottle of Gran Viña Sol from the impressive wine list. There are always a selection of special dishes on the menu here, which you may not find anywhere else. We chose the starter of tomato, anchovy and buffalo mozzarella salad with fresh mint and house dressing, plus a warm goat´s cheese tart with sundried tomatoes and fresh chives.

The food was delicious, and the service friendly and efficient. My friends were particularly hungry, and plumped for a chilled almond and garlic soup before the main course, which was superb. We then ordered a fresh seafood casserole which was baked in the oven and served piping hot to the table. Brown rice and peas were served with this, and proved to be the ideal accompaniment. The sauce was light and cheesy, and reminded me of a thermidor sauce which is normally flashed with brandy to taste. The dessert options were interesting, and mostly home made. After such a feast, we could only manage a strawberry mousse and a a crème catalan between us – but they were both perfect. For further information and/or reservation telephone: +34 952 881581.

Ojén is not the most beautiful of the mountain villages, nor the most historic, but it has a certain character which draws visitors from far and wide. Coupled with excellent road access and a host of good restaurants and bars, Ojén is well worth a visit!