Transformed overnight from a small fishing-and farming community into a bustling tourist destination, Nerja is to be found on the coast about 50 kilometres east from Málaga (forty-five minutes drive from Málaga Airport). Now boasting a population of over 20,000 – but still retaining its rustic, country charm – Nerja is fringed by the Sierra Almijara mountain range to the east and the warm waters of the Mediterranean Sea to the south. Fortunately, Nerja has escaped ruin by soulless concrete apartment blocks and ultra-modern glass-fronted high-rises, and is still characterised by its quaint whitewashed townhouses, many of which retain their original Moorish architecture

Nerja’s old-world charm is most apparent in the old quarter of town, with its winding streets, wrought iron terraces and locals who sit and chat outside their front doors, usually with their small dogs. The peace is only ever briefly intruded on in this traditional Catholic community with the daily ringing of the church bell, and even that seems to add to the allure of the place.

Nerja’s most famous natural attraction is undoubtedly the Cuevas de Nerja (Caves of Nerja), which were initially discovered by curious schoolboys in 1959. Replete with age-old primitive drawings, the caves are testament that prehistoric man inhabited Nerja hundreds of thousands of years ago, and some of the finds in the initial archaeological dig are on display just inside the entrance. The first chamber visitors enter is used as an auditorium in the summer, when over 600 people clamour for a place inside for the annual festival of music and dance. The biggest chamber, however, is the 200ft-high Hall of Cataclysms, boasting the tallest stalagmite column in the world. A small flashing red light near the top signifies the entrance to another set of caves, which are presently undergoing exploration and are not yet open to the public.

Burriana Beach is where sun-worshippers gather on its white, powdery sand during the day, and enjoy languid seaside lunches in one of the chiringuitos. Huge paellas are cooked for beachgoers to share throughout the summer, as are any big catches caught by local fishermen that day. Stretching 1.5 kilometres in length, Burriana beach has the best watersport amenities in Nerja, including waterskiing, parasailing, scuba diving and canoeing. Those who are looking for a more serene day at the beach can opt for Calahonda Beach, situated to the left of the town centre.

Nerja’s most popular manmade attraction is the Balcón de Europa (Balcony of Europe), which juts out from the edge of a steep cliff and is built on the site of a former Moorish fortress. The Balcón affords spectacular views out to the sea, and the coves of Burriana beach below. The promenade that leads up to the main vantage point is brimming with small cafés, restaurants, bars and market stalls, and is usually packed out with locals and tourists enjoying themselves and soaking up the lively ambience. Here visitors can have a caricature drawn of them by a talented local artist, buy some freshly roasted nuts, or pick up a handcrafted trinket or piece of jewellery for that somebody special back home. A market is open here most evenings, and tourists mill about until the small hours when it closes. From the Balcón visitors can take a horse-drawn carriage ride and explore the very heart of Nerja, including the Church of El Salvador, the Gardens of Capistrano Playa and the 16th century Nuestra Señora de las Angustias Hermitage.

There’s a variety of places to eat in Nerja – from traditional Spanish restaurants to more exclusive, upscale eateries – and visitors are assured they will find something to match both their taste and wallet. Highly recommended for casual dining are Restaurant Sevillano and Langham’s, while those looking for fine dining should check out Udo Heimer and Restaurant 34, to be found inside the exquisite Carabeo boutique hotel.

When the sun sets on Nerja the night is only just beginning, with young revellers crowding into the bars and discos in Plaza Tutti Frutti to the west of the Balcón. Despite being boisterous, the nightlife here is still in keeping with traditional Spain, with many bars serving tapas when you order a drink. Jimmy’s and Mangos are two of the more popular nightspots around this area, and play mainly Spanish pop. Aside from the summer months and January 5th (the Three Kings), the four-day feria in October is the best time to party in Nerja, complete with fairground, live shows, and non-stop street parties.

Nerja is as much a place to live as it is to holiday. In fact, many of the businesses here are owned by foreigners who’ve come to make new lives for themselves. There’s a strong sense of community amongst the ex-pats, whilst still embracing the locals and the Spanish way of life.
Nerja is one of those rare towns that nobody wants to change or alter to suit their own needs, and remains just as it was found – quaint, charismatic, and, above everything, incredibly beautiful.