26 Apr
Posted by Nick Clarke as About Andalucia, Cadiz
Usually known as ‘the town before Gibraltar’, La Linea de la Concepción in the Andalusian province of Cádiz is often overlooked as somewhere interesting to holiday, or indeed, make a home.
The town, which lies near the border between Spain and Gibraltar, derives its name from the Spanish word of linea, meaning line or boundary. But La Linea is more than just a border town – in fact, it is a major supplier of fruit and vegetables to Gibraltar, and a major manufacturer of cork and liquor. Additionally, La Linea is an important military garrison and port, making it so much more than just a town to pass through and stare at through the car window. There’s a labyrinth of military bunkers to be found under this somewhat deceptive town of smoking chimneys and factories, and it’s certainly worth getting out of the car for. As they say, never judge a book by its uninspiring cover.
Behind the largely industrial façade of La Linea lies a more inspiring inner core; a typically Spanish town, with tapas bars that spill out onto the cobbled streets; historic architecture that tells as much of a story as the lines on the locals’ faces; two beaches - Playa de Santa Barbara and Playa de Levante - bordered by a rather lovely Paseo de Maritimo promenade: and stunning views of the Rock of Gibraltar rising into the sky, and the smudged outline of east Africa in the distance.
One of the most beautiful attractions of La Linea is the Parroquia de la Inmaculada, a 19th century colonial-style church. To the east of the church is Calle Real - La Linea’s main street – which is buzzing with pedestrians, and lined predominantly with cafes, bakeries and shops. At the end of Calle Real is Calle Ramón y Cajal, which leads to La Linea’s hub, Plaza Cruz Herrera. This square is packed out with bars and restaurants, and is particularly lively during the weekends. It is also home to the Museo de Istom, found in the old military headquarters. A large outdoor market can also be found around here on Wednesday mornings. Other attractions of La Linea include a bullring, which holds traditional bullfights before a cheering audience, the Teatro Municipal la Velada, and the Parque Princesa Sofia, near the Gibraltar border.
Arguably more alluring than any of these things, however, is the low cost of living in this forgotten coastal town. Significantly cheaper than both Gibraltar and Marbella, La Linea draws those who are after a less commercialised town, somewhere where they can enjoy the Spanish climate and temperament without paying through the nose for it. Even better is that La Linea is easily accessible – particularly with the toll road - with Gibraltar only fifteen minutes away by car, and Malaga and its international airport only forty-five minutes the other way.
So before you head for your destination, remember that getting there can be half the fun. La Linea is - despite first impressions - one of Andalucia’s diamonds in the rough.
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