La Escollera in Estepona is most definitely off the tourist track but it is becoming a little more widely known among the more discerning. Drive down to the port area and at the red barriers explain to the very pleasant security guy on duty that you want the ‘restaurante La Escollera’ and he will let you in and out without charge. Drive through and down towards the left and the restaurant is facing you. When it is busy there is parking at the top of the beach as well as around the restaurant. Just take care not to block the entrances to the small warehouses opposite.

The restaurant lies in the heart of the Puerto Pesquero (fishing port) at the top of an unpretty and rather shingly beach. However it was never intended as a tourist attraction and there is the consolation that the sparkling Mediterranean lies only a few metres away. It is essentially a workers restaurant but the management have cottoned on to the fact that some visitors find it and offer English, German and French copies of the menu as well as Spanish.

La Escollera is a fish restaurant and offers quite an amazing choice. There are sword fish and rooster fish, sea bass, bream, sole, squid, crab, anchovies, red mullet, prawns, cod, mackerel, hake, whiting, sardines (grilled with almonds), shrimps, snails, tuna, on offer in a veritable feast of ‘la fruits de mer’. Grey mullet is not on the menu, either here or at any other restaurants, because they like hanging around waste outlets and are known as ‘sewer fish’. The Spanish won’t eat them and advise visitors not to eat them either.

Most of the fish dishes cost between seven euros fifty and twelve euros; though most hover around the nine euro mark. Rooster fish (the name conjures up amusing visions) cost ten euros and a whole squid (if anyone can face that) will set you back twenty three euros. ‘Snails of the Sea’ cost twelve euros, but their land cousins ‘Snails of the Field’ only cost eight euros. ‘Alive Fine Shells’ only cost eight euros too but the restaurant was busy and we couldn’t elicit exactly what ‘alive fine shells’ were.

We ordered ‘tortillitas de camarones’ (shrimp omelettes) which sounded good. The waiter asked how many we wanted. Strange question. One each of course! He laughed and took our order. When he brought them they were the most delicious tiny thin crisp omelettes, about the size of your palm, which could be wolfed down in two bites. We called the waiter over and asked for another four tortillas de camarones each! He went off, nodding sagely, and still laughing. Plates of crisp French fries (2.30 euros), mixed salads (from three to five euros) and baskets of large fresh rolls (70 cents each) can be ordered to accompany the tempting variety of seafood offerings.

The starters consisted almost exclusively of salads (three to five euros) and there was a wide selection of frozen desserts or ice cream for pudding. The fish really is the main business of the day and few eat anything else. Tinto verrano is cheap at 1.20 euros a glass and the choice of wines averages eight to nine euros a bottle. There is also a good choice of beers and soft drinks. Both coffee and tea are available as well.

La Escollera, being essentially a workers restaurant, has a large bar area full (mostly) of Spanish male port workers. The eating area is set out behind the bar. It is quite large and basic with plastic chairs and tables and cheap paper tablecloths; but it is scrupulously clean and the service is quick and efficient. The noonday sun shines directly in and it can get quite hot. By cool contrast the ‘servicios” (toilets) are very well appointed and surprisingly luxurious.

La Escollera, Puerto Pesquero, Estepona. tel: +34 952 806 354