One of Andalucia´s lesser known regions, is the intriguing province of Jaén, which boasts one of the most incredible renaissance cathedrals in Spain.  Dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin and completed in 1802, the cathedral was built to house the relic of the Veil of Veronica, which sits in the main chapel, and is shown to the public every Friday.

Like much of Andalucia, Jaén (whose main city is also named Jaén) was ruled for many years by the Moors, and it still shows many examples of Moorish architecture and historical sites, including the Arab Baths, which are the biggest monument of their kind preserved in Spain. The site is open to the public and can be visited under Villardompardo’s Palace, which attracts visitors from far and wide.

Other important and popular historical sites include the Museum of Arts and Popular Customs, the San Andrés Chapel, the Provincial Museum of Jaen and St. Ildefonso’s church. Saint Catalina’s Castle dominates the skyline, and the site on which the castle is built previously housed an Arabic fortress called Abrehui´s Castle – and some of the remains still exist today.  The current castle was constructed after the conquest of the city by Ferdinand III of Castile, in 1246.

More recently, cultural tourism has become big business in the city, and Jaén is most famous for its olives and olive oil production.  Known among the locals as liquid gold, Jaén olive oil is exported all over the world, and is known to be among the best in Europe.

With steep streets, picturesque squares and a host of great bars, restaurants and pavement cafés, Jaén offers visitors a wonderful range of amenities, museums and places of interest to visit.  We spent two days here and found the restaurants to be excellent, and we always received a warm welcome wherever we went.
One of Jaén´s highlights is the annual music festival, held every May which includes superb performances of flamenco, jazz, opera, orchestral and dance music, and is well worth a visit.

For lovers of the countryside and natural beauty, the Cazorla Mountain Range and Natural Park, which links the Sierra Morena and the Sierra Subbetica is an amazing wildlife reserve which is also home to the source of the Guadalquivir River.  Home to a vast number of wild animals, over 90 species of nesting birds and rare flora and fauna, this is one of Andalucia´s most unspoilt areas.

Walking, bike-riding, horse-trekking, jeep tours and even canoeing expeditions are all available through the park, and the landscape changes rapidly from streams, waterfalls, pine forests and fields of wild flowers to the more sedate river which winds through the middle of the region.

Nestling between the cities of Granada and is the fantastic town of Alcala la Real. During medieval times, this town was one of the area´s most strategic locations and played an important part in many battles throughout the 14th Century. The ruins of historic sites still remain and attract visitors from all over Spain and beyond.

The area of El Llanillo is famous for its historic buildings from many different periods, especially the Abacial Palace, which was built iin 1780, and displays a Baroque style with French and Italian details. Alcala was the first town of Andalucia to exhibit such stunning baroque architecture, and also the traditional hand-made crafts such as leather goods, embroidery and pottery are unique to this area.

As in other areas of Andalucia, Jaén loves to party, and a host of celebrations, street parties and festivals take place almost monthly in this beautiful province. One celebration not to be missed takes place every August when over 11,000 candles are lit to pay tribute to the Virgen de los Mercedes.

Unsurprisingly, olive oil is a staple ingredient in many of Jaén´s most famous dishes, but fresh herring and cod is also used widely plus a range of spinach dishes are also offered in many restaurants.  Try the  Ajilimojili , which is cooked potatoes with red peppers, olive oil and vinegar or vegetable stew made with ripe yellow squash, onions and aubergine.   Local favourites also include Pipirrana, which is tomato, green peppers, breadcrumbs, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, salt and hard-boiled egg.  Various delicious rice dishes include veal and chopped garlic and fresh trout from the rivers of Jaén is often served with butter, ham, bacon, parsley white wine and salt.  The ever famous rice pudding, is also a favourite dessert in the region.
As in Seville, we found the hospitality in Jaén fantastic, and the local places to visit were varied and interesting.  I would highly recommend a visit to Andalucia´s often forgotten province as soon as you can – you won´t be disappointed.