Istan is one of the many ‘white villages’ of Moorish origin clinging to the valley sides of the mountains of the Sierra de las Nieves. It is only about 15km distance from Marbella but completely different from the hustle and bustle of the coastal area. It is situated in the foothills of the La Concha Mountain, which towers above Marbella.

Travelling west from Marbella along the A7 coast road passing The Marbella Club and then the Puento Romano Hotel you will see a right turn and sign post for Istan. Once you have passed Manolo Santana Racquets Club on the left, the A7176 road starts climbing almost immediately. It is not long before you can see the huge bridge which spans the valley as part of the A7 Toll road – an amazing structure of modern design showing that the Spanish civil engineers don’t let the problem of mountains or valleys stand in their way! Although some of the bends in the road have been partly straightened it is a long and winding road (is this a cue for a song?) to the village of Istan.
During Spring the landscape is particularly beautiful with many colourful species of flowers and shrubs abundant on the valley sides together with the rich red terracotta soil and deep green of the pine trees.
After about 4km you will see the dam which restrains Lake Concepcion, the main reservoir for this part of the Costa del Sol. As you continue the drive upwards the Lake comes into view and is quite breathtaking. At the moment the reservoir is full and it is difficult to imagine how it looks in time of drought. It is then possible to see the tops of buildings that were flooded when the decision to make the area a reservoir was taken – a very eerie picture indeed!
At about 7km you will reach Cerros del Lago. This urbanization was first built more than 20 years ago and was the only sign of civilisation before reaching Istan. However as with most of the Costa del Sol the developers have invaded and there are many more houses being built in this area taking advantage of the exceptional views of the Mediterranean, Gibraltar and the coast of Africa.
Travelling further onwards and upwards after about another 7km the village of Istan will come into view, gleaming white in the sunshine.
Parking the car and exploring on foot is recommended, as the streets are very narrow and steep. Use the public car park (turn right just as you enter the village). Here you will find suggestions for walking and bicycle routes if you are serious about seeing the surrounding mountain area.
Walk downwards from the car park and you are almost immediately aware of peacefulness only broken by the sounds of flowing water. There are numerous fountains and streams, which help to keep the streets cool in the warmer months as well as irrigating the surrounding countryside. One of the main fountains within the village is the one in the area known as El Chorro just down from the car park. Up to 50 years ago the houses were without running water and the women of the village used to do their washing at this fountain.
The streets are narrow, steep and lined with tall white buildings. Turning a corner inevitably shows a balcony or patio festooned with colour – geraniums and bougainvillea in abundance. The residents of Istan known as ‘panochas’ are proud of their village, keeping the exterior of their houses smart and even making sure that the road outside their house is kept clean.
The Church of San Miguel is in the centre of the village and is used for all celebrations – the Feria, New Year etc. Most streets eventually lead to the square.
The village itself is well sign posted and will direct you to the 5 spectacular view points (miradors) which make the twisting road journey worthwhile. It is possible to see the full length of the reservoir and the Mediterranean Sea all in one view.
You can see the terraced agriculture on the steep hillsides growing avocados, almonds, lemons, oranges, potatoes, tomatoes etc., all being irrigated by the many streams and waterfalls which surround the village.
Market day is on Saturday morning which ensures that all the bars and restaurants are open at lunchtime on that day! If you visit early in the week it is possible that the choice of bars and restaurants is limited although the bar in the church square is open all day everyday where there is a selection of Tapas and a ‘Menu del Dia’ all at reasonable prices.
Istan recently won an award from The Association Of Interior Tourism of Malaga as the town with the best-conserved historic centre in the province, recognition of the excellent efforts made by the town hall in maintaining the village’s unique rural character.
The Mayor of Istan insists that the 1500 residents are to be congratulated for their efforts in keeping the town attractive but also says it is easy to maintain what is already there - “If you have a beautiful pair of shoes, all you need to do is polish them once in a while”.
Istan isn’t a village that you pass through on your way to somewhere else. The winding mountain road stops there! It still remains very Spanish and hasn’t embraced tourism to the same extent as many other villages in the area. Don’t expect to find gift shops on every corner or English Breakfasts and Sunday Lunch. It is certainly well worth a visit if you want to get away from the coastal and tourist areas.