Just thinking about the stunning rose gardens of the Generalife -  their fragrances are with me.  These are not sub tropical gardens with rare species at every turn.  They are an oasis of calm famed for their architecture and original design dating back to the late 13th century when Granada was already the most beautiful city in Al Andalus ruled by Muhammad al –Ahmad the first Nasrid king.

The location chosen was the Cerro del Sol, the fertile area to the east of the Alhambra.  The river Darro cascading through almost 18kms of hillside was aided by Arab engineering with their wells, channels, siphons and sand filters, to finally reach the Generalife.  Here they were able to create their paradise on earth.

The Moorish Kings had many other retreats scattered over this hillside none of which have survived however. These small palaces with lush gardens and orchards were designed to provide privacy, luxury and tranquility.

The original Generalife Palace and Gardens were laid out by order of Muhammad 1 who ruled between 1272 and 1301. It was constructed as a small, simple yet intimate summer palace surrounded by idyllic shady gardens to provide pure pleasure for the rulers, an escape from the pressures of war and everyday life in Granada.   The gardens were conceived to satisfy the senses and incorporate all that nature could provide.   The sight and smell of the flowers,  the sound of murmuring water and the taste and feel of the fruits and vegetables from the orchards.  The Arabs brought agricultural knowledge with them from the east and were able to cultivate a multitude of crops needed for their survival such as cereals, beans, seeds and aromatic herbs like cumin and basil, as well as vegetables and fruits.  All these crops were originally grown in and around the Generalife Gardens.

What you see today is very different since the gardens are planted mainly for sight and smell.   Changes have been made following the many restorations and additions by subsequent Muslim rulers, the Christians after the Reconquest and then again in the 16th, 19th and 20th centuries by the numerous private owners.
In 1921 it was finally handed back to the State by the owners, the Marqueses de Campotéjar after a lengthy court battle which they won. They were, in return rewarded for their generosity by King Alfonso X111.

Probably the most colourful times of year to visit are Spring, Summer and early Autumn when the plants, flowers and trees thrive and give bursts of colour and scent into the intimate and secluded areas of the gardens. Whether it be a symmetrical garden, a mosaic pathway, a stairway, a green pool reflecting nearby facades, or a fountain, you will see that each space has it’s own charm and beauty, divided from the next by neatly trimmed cypress or box hedges or stairways.  There are always benches in quiet corners where you can sit and take in the glorious surroundings.

The gardens are best reached from the main ticket area of the Alhambra and this route passes over a bridge close to the Torre de Agua,  the  important water tower that used to protect the aquaduct alongside that channelled water down to the Alhambra. This entrance opened in 1971. Tall cypress trees line the aptly named Paseo de los Cipreses, which leads down to the New Gardens.
On the right side is the most modern building in the Generalife, the Manuel Falla auditorium,  built in 1952 on the ruins of old agricultural buildings.  Ballet, dance and the Annual Festival of Music and Dance are held here.

Further along are the New Gardens, planted from 1931 on the site of old orchards extending the area to where the auditorium now stands.   They are exquisite symmetrical gardens, small pools with constantly splashing fountains, Seville orange trees and heavily laden fragrant roses climbing madly over pergolas.  Small black and white pebbles form delightful mosaic pathways.  Interestingly, the white ones are from the river Darro and the black from the River Genil.
Prior to 1921 when still in private ownership, it was at this point in the Gardens that any visitor had to ring the bell for permission to enter the residential complex.

Through these New Gardens the walk passes to the outer entrance known as the Dismounting Yard, pleasantly shaded with vines and climbing roses. The benches and arches are where the stables would have been and above the horseshoe arch is the symbolic key of the Alhambra, signifying a royal residence.  This is another ideal spot for a sit down to reflect a while.  Through this is a further courtyard, it’s orange trees giving welcome shade to the central fountain. These two areas have been well preserved to reflect their Moorish origins and in that era access to them would have been via the Puerta del Arrabal and up the Cuesta Rey Chico from the Alhambra.

Next is one of the most photographed areas of the Generalife, the Patio de la Acequia but since the Reconquest it has been greatly restored.    In 1958 after a fire the original layout of the courtyard was discovered and it  was partly reconstructed.  The result is a very beautiful and atmospheric Spanish-Arabic Garden measuring just over 48mts in length which is set between two small palaces.
Generally, the exterior of Moorish buildings is quite plain without any kind of adornment whereas the interiors are always heavily adorned with plasterwork, mosaics and mocárabes, which are ornamental pieces of plaster in different shapes forming stalactites.  The delightful patios, always present in Islamic architecture provided an intimate outdoor space giving   light and air to the surrounding rooms.
The first small palace is known as the South Pavillion and some of the architecture here evidently dates back to the 13th century. The oblong room on the upper floor has balconies and with it’s Morisco paintings has clearly been restored at a later period.

At the other end of the patio is the Northern Pavilion which has also been much restored with the two upper floors added in the Christian period.
Of the 5 ‘lozenge’ shaped arches, the central one is higher and wider and of a style belonging to the Almohades.  Above the 3 interior arches are the inscriptions of a poem attributing the work to Ismail 1 and dating it to 1319 and the Muslim victory in the Vega of Granada.  The richly decorated space inside would probably have been the Sultan’s reception room and from the balconies he would have enjoyed the views over the Darro Valley.

The two palaces are linked by the Patio de la Acequia which would have originally been a simple yet intimate and private garden with water destined for the Alhambra bubbling from basins at either end into the green central pool.  Richly coloured and perfumed gardens would have completed this very peaceful place. This was where the Muslim ruler Mohammad who instigated the building,  would have spent much time between battling for his Kingdom of Granada and hoping for an accord with King Alfonso X.

In the 16th century the mirador became a chapel and in the 17th century the original solid wall to the west was turned into an arched gallery with 18 openings.  The other side has remains of a 16th century wall and a dwelling that probably housed the Sultan’s legitimate wives.  More recently, side jets were added, spouting water back and forth across the pool and a fountain was set midway forming the gardens into 4 sections.

Possibly the interior paradise created by the Moors was by then, no more….

From here is the Patio de los Cipreses, or the Patio de la Sultana.
Sadly the ancient cypress tree is the only original feature and the northern side is enclosed with a gallery built between 1584 and 1586.
Legend has it, that the ivy covered walls surrounding this court hold many secrets.  This is where the wife of King Boabdil, the Sultana Zoraida met with her admirer, a member of the Abencerraje family.  When this ‘aventura’ was discovered and the nobleman in question wouldn’t admit his guilt, the King had 36 male members of the family executed.  The cypress trunk with the plaque alongside is reputed to be over 1000 years old and has been marked by thousands of hands since Victor Hugo and Chateaubrand began the custom.

The Upper Gardens are reached from here via an original picturesque water stairway completely shaded by laurel bushes. This supply probably provided water to the Sultan for his ritual washing before prayer.  The wide stairs have three short flights of steps with a small fountain on each landing.  Water flows down either side of the steps through semicircular clay pipes, gushing down like miniature waterfalls. Again, with Arab engineering the flow could be altered at the top, diverting the water down the steps themselves.  These romantic Upper Gardens are in the highest point of the Generalife and made up of terraces, narrow pathways and pebbled areas laid over the original ruined gardens.  They are modern with pergolas creaking under the weight of the colourful scented climbing  shrubs, trickling fountains, neatly manicured and dense cypress and tightly clipped box hedges.   The flower beds are packed with an explosion of colour. Weather worn terracotta pots hide in the shade, bursting with ferns, cactus and aspidistra.  Bright mauve wisteria climbs recklessly above allowing only small shafts of sunlight through.  This is one of the best spots to sit and take in the views across the Vega to the Albaicin and down to the Court of the Sultana.

Close to this garden is what we call the Romantic Mirador, not much is known about this 19th century folly except that it was originally a small mosque  where the Sultan prayed.  Alongside is where the water enters that will finally arrive at the Alhambra,  via the water stairway whereas the water used to irrigate the Generalife Gardens comes in through the Patio de los Cipreses.

While walking back to the Alhambra after the visit one can’t help thinking about the contribution the Arabs made to the magnificent Kingdom of Granada  and the fact that without the abundant water, neither the Alhambra Palace nor the Generalife Gardens would exist in this spot.

The gardens can be visited on a joint ticket with the Alhambra OR on a Gardens only ticket which costs just 7euros

The web site for purchasing tickets is www.alhambra-ticket.com
Granada Tourist information               www.turismodegranada.org

I suggest 2 _  hours minimum for the Garden visit.

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