Most visitors to the Costa del Sol stay on the western side of the coast, with the famous towns of Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola or Marbella. However, travelling east of Malaga to the area known as the Axarquia, is well worth the effort. The best known resort on this side of the coast is Nerja, but if you travel just a few kilometers inland you come to Frigiliana, the undisputed jewel of the area.

Arriving from the direction of Malaga, on the N340 motorway, take exit 292 marked Nerja/Frigiliana, then turn inland onto the MA105 for Frigiliana. This road takes you up into the foothills of the Sierra Tejeda/Almijara mountains and, in no time at all, to the village itself, found at a height of 435m above sea level. At the entrance to Frigiliana there is a roundabout which you should go straight across, making for the “casco historico”, or old part of town. You may park either along this road or in the car park at the end on the right. From here on it’s time to rely on your feet!
As you look up towards the village the first thing to catch your eye is the “miel de caña” or sugar cane factory, the only one still existing in Europe. This factory, “El Ingenio de Nuestra Senora del Carmen” was built at the end of the sixteenth century as home to one of Frigiliana’s noble families and, close by, is the Tourist Information Office which is housed in a building of similar age, originally used for the families livestock.

This is the best place to begin our visit to Frigiliana, to orientate ourselves, enjoy this wonderfully restored building, take a look at the small museum and exhibition centre, and, of course, pick up a leaflet describing the Battle of Frigiliana.
Dotted throughout the old part of the village are 12 ceramic plaques that describe the famous battle, one of the last to take place in this area between the Moors and the Christians in 1569 CE. I won’t spoil the story for you by describing it, take the expanatory from the Tourist Office and have the pleasure of discovering it yourselves. By following the route you’ll visit a fair part of old Frigiliana, with its hidden courtyards and winding cobbled streets, finishing at the villages main Church. Take a look inside and then relax over a coffee, or a glass of the local sweet wine, in the Church Square.
When you’ve caught your breath meander back down to your starting point along Calle Real, the main street. Here you’ll find a number of shopsselling locally produced goods, among them ceramics, local wine and honey, and “miel de caña”. If you’re there around midday pop into one of the local bars to try their specialities, among then fried aubergines served with sugar cane honey. This sounds really strange, but is truly wonderful and not to be missed.

At the end of Calle Real you’ll find yourself back at El Ingenio. Do go and take a look, the ceramics shop alone is worth the effort. Also, by walking past the factory you get a view of the Chillar River Gorge and up to the mountains.
If the winding streets haven’t defeated you and you still have some energy left, why not carry on along Calle San Sebastian into the newer part of the village, or along the side of the gorge. Either route has plenty to offer. From the higher route you’ll see spectacular views of the gorge and mountains, and from the lower route village life, including a small wall shrine to one of Frigiliana’s patron saints, San Sebastian.
Keep an eye out for the Church as well, which can be found between the two routes (seen below).

I hope you will enjoy Frigiloiana as much as I’ve enjoyed telling you about it!