romeria-4Having lived in Spain for nearly 15 years, I have visited some of the best fiestas, romerias and street parties in Andalucia. But nothing compares to the annual Romeria de las Lagunas. Situated just 30 minutes from Marbella and Puerto Banus, Mijas-Golf is easily accessible by car.

This year´s event is on Sunday 31st May, and is one celebration not to miss.  Starting at the Parroquia de San Manuel, Mijas-Costa and winding its way up to the Parque Esparragal, close to Mijas-Golf, this colourful and poignant romeria attracts visitors from all over Andalucia.

The statue of the Virgin is carried up the dry river bed, and is due to arrive at the Parque Esparragal this year, accompanied by music, oxen and decorated horses, at 1.30pm (remember this is Spanish time so get there early if you don´t want to miss anything).

The pub in the park normally opens at 12 noon, but it does get very busy on the day of the Romeria, and you should get there very early if you want to get a seat – or even better take your own.  The Romeria de Las Lagunas is much more than a religious event, and, as with most Spanish celebrations, it involves a lot of dancing, music and fino-drinking.

Last year we arrived at 12 noon and managed to grab the last table at the bar, although it was a bit of a scrum to keep hold of the chairs which I was trying to save for late arrivals.  The pub at Parque Esparragal serves a great range of snacks and tapas such as: Sliced tomatoes with garlic and olive oil – €2, Chicken Wings – €3.50, Pork fillet with garlic and bread – €4.50 and Chicken or Pork Brochettes for just €1.50 each.  Children are well catered for with a range of kid-friendly favourites such as fish fingers and chips.

This year we are taking our own food and drink (secure in the knowledge that if the booze runs out, the bar is next door), and a selection of salads and cold meats (cool boxes essential).  My friends hit on the great idea of us all taking a different dish to the Romeria, plus copious amounts of wine, water and beer, and we aim to set up our picnic under some nearby trees, for shade.  Everyone is supposedly bringing chairs, and we are looking forward to a delicious feast with a lot of fun and frolics thrown in.

After meeting at the park at 10.30am, one of our party of merrymakers will guard the table, food and drinks until we have safely deposited our cars back at home in Mijas-Golf.  If you like a drink or 12, don´t take the car to this one – it´s a long day.

After the statue of the Virgin has been carried into the small chapel at Parque Esparragal, the fun begins.  Last year we were treated to free fino sherry, poured from high by men and women in traditional outfits.  How happy we were when my father arrived back at the table with four schooners of sherry, only to realize they were all for him (It´s an English thing ….!).  At 2pm a massive paella is prepared close to the bar area and, although there are long queues, is served free to the public.  Absolutely delicious.

Live background music is played nearly all day, but the real fun starts after the food has been served.  We were lucky enough to hear a wonderful singer last year, although her name escapes me, and hundreds of people were dancing al fresco to Sevillanas music, and some fabulous flamenco sounds.  Pop and disco also moved the younger crowd onto the open-air dance floor, and it wasn´t long before the whole park was rocking.

Prizes are also awarded to the best-dressed horses (well to the owners of the best-dressed horses I should say, as if it was awarded to the horse itself, it may well eat it).

There are two highlights of the day for me.  The annual pole climbing competition and the wonderful Andalucian horses, decorated specially for the occasion.  The pole climbing is one of those great Spanish events that would never be allowed in England for health and safety reasons (boo hissss!).  As crowds gather round, young fit men (mostly) are egged on by their adoring girlfriends to attempt to climb a greasy pole with a large jamon serrano hanging from the top.  They try everything!!  Sanding their hands, attempting to climb up this telegraph-pole is about as likely as me climbing Mount Everest.  These bare-chested warriors (well local youths with big egos ), haul themselves up the vertical wooden pole, which is about 20 ft in height, in a vain attempt to grab the prize.  The vast majority fail.  Some get height fright half way up and slide splinteringly down, while others get about 4 feet up the pole, only to give up at the first attempt.

But it would seem, there is always one winner.  One gallant lad has used super-human strength to get to the top, grab the ham, and to much applause, arrive back safely on firm ground.  Great fun, great entertainment (it exhausts me just watching it), and a great atmosphere.

After another hour´s manic dancing (more manic after every glass of wine in our case) we ambled off in the direction of home only to find, yes you guessed it, another bar at the end of the park, which was surrounded by men on horseback.  It almost looked as if the horses themselves had popped in for a few jars before bedtime (again the wine talking).  So obviously we stopped off for ´one for the road´ as my dad refers to it, and swayed off in the direction of home.

All in all, the Romeria de Las Lagunas is a fabulous day out, where families, friends and tourists all come together to enjoy a festival of religion, food and fun.  And in these difficult times, it´s worth remembering that the music, paella and fino are free (well at least they were last year).

If you want to explore the area before or after the Romeria, you will find some great bars, restaurants and ventas in the area of Mijas-Golf, and close to the Parque Esparragal. The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly The Tamisa Golf Hotel, which sits proudly overlooking the Mijas Golf Course.  This is a beautiful setting, and tables are laid out around the pool area with fabulous views of the golf course and the Mijas mountains in the distance.  A varied snack menu, a full lunch and dinner menu are available at the hotel, which is open to non-residents.  Happy hour takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday evenings 6-8pm.

If you are looking for something a little less high brow, but equally as good, try the Phoenix Lounge or Someplace Else, just 1km up the road from the park at La Cala Hills.   Both bars serve a great range of tapas, snacks and full meals inside or out on the terrace.

If you are looking for all things Spanish, try the Venta la Morena, Hoyo 19 or Venta la Torre, all situated just 5 minutes from the park (Venta la Torre slightly to the North and Venta la Morena and Hoyo 19 1km south).  We had breakfast recently at La Torre – 4 coffees and four small rolls with bacon and eggs – and the bill came to €10.00.  Set menus are offered at all three ventas at lunchtime, and you can enjoy a fabulous three course meal including half a bottle of wine per person at Hoyo 19, for example for €12 per head.  Consider what you would pay in some of the swankier restaurants on the coast for a meal that would probably not be as good.

And if you fancy a round of golf while you are in the area, Mijas-Golf course is situated just 1km from Parque Esparragal.  All in all this area has a lot to offer, and you will be hard pressed to find any other destination on the Costa del Sol which offers so much to so many people. With bars, restaurants, deluxe hotels, golf courses and even a horse-racing track close by, Mijas-Golf is offer visitors a diverse range of attractions and facilities.  Just 5 minutes drive from Fuengirola, if you fancy a day on the beach you´re not too far away without being stuck in the middle of the hustle and bustle of summer time coastal resorts.

To get to the Parque Esparragal from the coast road, exit the N-340, from direction Calahonda, at the Aqua Park/Mcdonalds just past Dunnes Stores.  At the roundabout go left under the road and follow signs for Coin.  Go straight past the industrial estate on the left and at the new roundabout straight on again.  Pass Venta la Morena on the left and Hoyo 19 on the right.  Pass the Tamisa Golf Hotel on the right. Just 1.5km past here you will see Parque Esparragal on the left hand side.  Ample parking behind the bar area.  But on this day, make sure you get there early. The Romeria de las Lagunas is held annually, either the last Sunday in May or the first Sunday in June.  The best way to check the dates each year is to contact the Mijas Tourist Office on: (0034 952589034).