After a long but enjoyable train journey from Algeciras we arrive at Granada train station on the western side of the city. Alighting from the carriage, with stiff legs and the noise of the tracks still ringing in our ears, we were welcomed to the most spectacular of views; that of the city skyline backed by the grand massif of the Sierra Nevada. Breathtaking in its� winter splendour. The temperature gauge showed that it was already 20 degrees, the sun was shining, not a cloud in the sky, and the mountains, seemingly not a stones throw away, were glistening in their winters� apparel.

We hailed a taxi at the front of the station and asked to be taken to Plaza Nueva, where we had a room booked at the Hotel Plaza Nueva. It turned out that we could easily have walked from the station to the hotel as it wasn�t a great distance, but being new comers to the city we were not to know this. The ride cost only �5 and it meant that our legs would be fresh for the afternoons� wanderings.

Before booking into our hotel we decided to sit outside one of the caf�s on the square and have a quick fix of caffeine and a sandwich. It was incredible to think that it was still only January and we were sat outside drinking coffee in an inland city at an altitude of 685 metres or well over 2,000 feet. Plaza Nueva is a beautiful, pedestrianised place, with magnificently ornate buildings, and narrow passageways leading off it. Along many of these passages we were later to find many Arab shops and bazaars where it was possible to purchase all manner of things, from packets of tea, bunches of mint and brass trinkets, to incredibly beautiful and elaborate pieces of furniture, a veritable Aladdin�s cave.

We checked in at the hotel which we had booked on-line a month previous. It was clean, spacious, comfortable and competitively priced. Our room overlooked the plaza with a balcony on which we sat for some time to take it all in. From the balcony we could see part of the Alhambra, the Torre de la Vela � the watch tower which loomed ominously above the plaza. At this time of day it was wonderful having the room with a view but we were later to regret it. Granada is a vibrant city and the people know how to enjoy themselves into the small hours of the morning, �la madrugada� a peculiarly Spanish term referring to the hours between midnight and 6 a.m.when the Spanish will still be out having fun. This meant that we actually got very little sleep, so be warned; forego the room with a view and ask for one at the rear of the building.

We decided to start our afternoons� wanderings with a visit to the Alhambra Palace. We left Plaza Nueva and took off up a steep side street, Cuesta de Gomerez, a fascinating street in its� own right where one will find workshops housing world famous guitar makers. It is possible to enter and watch them work, though on this occasion we did not bother. Soon the road flanked by buildings ends and we find ourselves in woodland. The way becomes much steeper, but enjoyable in the dappled light. After half an hour we reach the entrance to the Alhambra to be greeted by a disappointing view; that of a queue that was blatantly too long to join at this time of day. We have since discovered that it is possible to book in advance at any BBVA bank or at alhambratickets.com. Despite not entering the main part of the Alhambra there is still plenty to see of interest around it. This included a delightful walk back down Cuesta de los chinos on the far side of the Palace with views of the Albayzin. Flanked on one side by a high bank along which grew trees and on our right a fast flowing stream from which the steep walls of the fortress reared from the opposite bank. This route exited on the Paseo de los Tristes a lovely spot to take a break above the river Darro. From here we caught the tourist minibus which, for a Euro, took us to the top of the Albayzin.

The Albayzin is Granada�s old Islamic quarter and made up mostly of narrow, cobbled streets and ancient whitewashed buildings and inhabited mostly by students. At the top one will find Plaza de San Nicolas where one can be entertained by street performers or purchase handmade jewellery. The most significant aspect of this plaza though is the fantastic view of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada behind it. For those interested in photography I�d imagine this to be a fantastic place to be in the evening with the sun setting behind you casting its� light on the Palace and mountains. We spent a good three hours wandering the narrow streets, watching and listening to the buskers, drinking caf� solos and watching the world go by. Off one square we found a delightful caf� called Los Caracoles, the snails, snails being a regional speciality. Of course I ordered a portion, and a bowlful arrived steaming in a wonderful peppery sauce. Later we were told that it was the place to eat caracoles in Granada.

Before we knew it, the sun was setting and the temperature began to fall rapidly, afternoon was rolling into evening so we made our way back to the hotel to ready ourselves for the nights� entertainment.

We headed out just before 9 p.m. It was too early! The streets, and bars that were open, were empty. We found one that was open and went inside to find that we were its� only patrons. We ordered our drinks, two beers, and five minutes later were presented with two jamon and queso bocadillo�s. We accepted them graciously and tried to explain that we hadn�t ordered them. It was then explained to us that in Granada it is traditional to serve a tapas with every drink, particularly early on in the evening. Had we found the true Spain? The Spain one reads of in guide books and Hemingway novels? This was the start of our tapas crawl that went on late into the evening allowing us to try out several of the local dishes such as ham and broad bean stew (habas con jamon), and the local morcilla or blood sausage, without having to order a main meal. The city by night was hectic, with throngs of people wandering between bars and restaurants all out for a good time. Considering that it is such a large city with a diverse range of inhabitants and cultures it felt very safe.

Sunday morning arrived, too quickly, after a night lacking in sleep due to the room overlooking the Plaza Nueva. This made for a sluggish start and a lazy breakfast of churros and milky coffee. Believing that our return train departed at 2 p.m. we decided to have a look at some of the sights around the centre of town to ensure that we would be able to have lunch before leaving. We wandered around appreciating the architecture, old and modern, Islamic and Catholic, admired the cathedral, and drank coffees on the Plaza