Gibraltar is like marmite. You either love it or hate it, but you can´t deny its fascinating history and troubled past. The famous rock of Gibraltar is just one hour´s drive from Marbella and Puerto Banus, and if you want to explore a little piece of England on the Mediterranean, there is no better place to visit.

Situated on a narrow piece of land linked to the end of Spain, the rock of Gibraltar is 426 metres high and covers an area of 6 square kilometres.  The thin coastal strip of land to the west overlooks the Straits of Gibraltar and the Atlantic Ocean, and the east side with its sheer, steep cliffs overlooks the Mediterranean.

Gibraltar´s history evolves from its strategic position at the southern-most tip of the Iberian peninsula, where Europe meets Africa, and still remains to be an important base for the British Navy.  The territory shares a border with Spain to the North.  Gibraltar was granted by Spain to Great Britain in perpetuity in 1713, under the Treaty of Utrecht, and although Spain insists it should be returned to them, it remains British territory. The British Government has vowed to respect the wishes of the Gibraltarians, who oppose any proposals for shared sovereignty with Spain.
The rock is home to many historical sites and places of interest, that tourism boosts the economy, and many cruise ships also dock here regularly, bringing visitors from all over the globe.  Gibraltar has become a popular holiday and business travel destination over the years and has the added bonus of tax-free shopping.

Shopping in Gibraltar
Tax free shopping is a huge attraction in Gibraltar, and you can pick up cheap tobacco and spirits from many stores on Main Street. Watch out for the customs officers though, as you are only legally allowed to return to Spain with 200 cigarettes or 250g of rolling tobacco and one litre of spirits per person. If you get caught with more, you could have it taken off you, and your car registration number will be stored on a database with other naughty smugglers.

Quality stores in Gibraltar, which also have branches in the UK, include Marks and Spencer, British Home Stores and the supermarket, Morrison´s. With the pound per euro exchange so bad at the moment, many ex-pat residents in Spain now choose to do their shopping in Gibraltar to save money, and top up the car with petrol or diesel at the same time, which is also much cheaper. Make sure you don´t leave your car in Morrison´s Car Park for more than three hours (as we did) or you will be clamped and it will cost you 50 quid to have the clamp removed.
Gibraltar Rock Tour

The limestone cliffs of Gibraltar are home to many natural caves, including the breathtaking St. Michael´s Grotto which is open to visitors.  It is also well worth taking a trip down the tunnels of the great siege, which were used as a defence system in the 18th century, and can still be explored today.

You can take a taxi tour of the rock, or if you prefer to be left to your own devices, you can walk all the way up Main Street, past the Governor´s building to the cable car.  We prefer to explore this way, and have taken many friends to the top of the rock where the famous Barbary Apes of Gibraltar live.  Mostly found in the Atlas Mountains of Algeria and Morocco it is thought this distinct breed of ape was introduced to Gibraltar hundreds of years ago, and have flourished ever since.  The animals have become accustomed to tourists on the rock, and will come up close or even leap onto your shoulders when you are least expecting it.

There is also a fabulous audio tour at the top of the rock which explains the surroundings, the history and the traditions of Gibraltar.  The views from the platform close to the cafeteria are absolutely stunning, and you can see clearly the African coast and the Spanish resorts in the distance.

Five beaches surround Gibraltar, including Catalan Bay, Eastern Beach, Camp Bay, Sandy Bay and Little Bay, and water-sports facilities are available in Marina Bay, Sheppard´s Marina and Queensway Quay Marina, where diving, sailing and dolphin-spotting are widely enjoyed.  We recently enjoyed a trip out on the dolphin boat, and saw literally hundreds of dolphins swimming alongside the boat in the Bay.  Apparently they are attracted to this area by the warmer water.

The Great Siege Tunnels Gibraltar
During the American War of Independence, France and Spain made an all out attempt to recapture the Rock from the British in Gibraltar’s fourteenth siege, always called the Great Siege, which lasted from July 1779 to February 1783. Gradually the enemy advanced their trenches on the isthmus, until in 1782 the enemy were so close to the Rock that none of the existing batteries in Gibraltar could fire on them.

The governor, General Elliot is said to have offered a reward to anyone who could tell him how to get cannons on the steep north face of the Rock, known as the “Notch”. Sergeant-Major Ince, a member of the company of Military Artificers, suggested that this could be done by tunnelling and permission was granted to start the works. Originally the tunnel was only 82 feet in length, but by the end of World War II, the tunnels had reached a winding distance of over 30 miles.

Gibraltar Marina
Gibraltar Marina is continually improving, and there are now plenty of excellent cafés, hotels and restaurants in this upmarket area to keep visitors entertained, fed and watered.  Try the excellent Elliot O´Callaghan´s Hotel in the marina area for some luxury and pampering. The Marina casino is a relatively new addition to the area, and you can play roulette, blackjack, poker and a wide range of other casino games between 8pm and 4am.

If you fancy a few drinks before your meal, have a stroll around Marina Bay or Irish Town, where there are plenty of cafés, bars and British style pubs to keep you refreshed.  Gibraltar offers something for everyone, and is the perfect place to spend a day or more with the family.  Temperatures are very similar to the nearby Costa del Sol, so remember to take your sun cream, and more importantly, remember your passport.

Dolphin Trips in Gibraltar
Another major attraction in Gibraltar is the boat trips to see the dolphins in the bay. We spent 90 minutes on one of the boats which go from the marina area and saw literally hundreds of dolphins. Apparently they are attracted to the warm water of the bay of Gibraltar, and you are likely to see many more here than you will off the coast of Spain.

Places to Eat in Gibraltar
Whatever you fancy to eat in Gibraltar you will find a restaurant to suit your tastes and budget. From Pizza Hut to Chinese, from 5-star á la carte to fish and chips, and some of the best home-cooked food available, you will find it all in Gibraltar. We stayed over for a night in the Elliot O´Callaghan Hotel on Main Street and enjoyed a fabulous meal at the rooftop bistro.  The Boatyard Restaurant and Gaucho´s also serve excellent steaks, fish and a range of vegetarian dishes to suit all visitors. Also, if you happen to be staying at the Elliot O´Callaghan or nearby and fancy a flutter after dinner, stroll over to the Marina Casino, which is open from 8pm to the small hours of the morning.

If you want to arrange a day´s excursion to Gibraltar, and leave the car at home, you can book from most of the hotels in Fuengirola, Marbella and Puerto Banus or direct through travel companies which advertise in the local papers. We recently went by coach from Fuengirola (when the car was being repaired) and a return trip cost just €12 each, and allowed 5 hours in Gibraltar.

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There is so much to discover in this part of Andalucia with the Alhambra perched high above Granada city, the Alpujarra and Sierra Nevada mountain ranges interspersed with pretty white villages and of course the delicious food and wine.

But there is another world waiting to be discovered beneath the surface of the Mediterranean sea skirting the region’s Costa Tropical. In the summer, the waters are crystal clear and warm boasting an abundance of colours and fish. There are many places where you can easily discover hidden treasures with just a mask and snorkel including Playa Rijana near Castell de Ferro, Playa Alfa Mar in Salobreña and Marina del Este in la Herradura.

However to really experience the underwater world you should go for a scuba dive and local diving company Seriously Blue has the equipment and know-how to offer you a taste of the underwater-hot-spots along the Costa Tropical. Experienced divers can go for guided fun dives where you may encounter large schools of all kinds of fish, octopus and sepias, colourful wrasses, hermit crabs with anemones on there backs, moray eels, Spanish dancers, huge groupers, orange anemone fields and if you are lucky you might even meet the amazing Mola Mola!

For non-divers, there is a Discover Scuba Dive program for which you need no diving experience, other than an ability to swim and a taste for adventure. This half day program will include a basic instruction by experienced and professional dive staff, information on how to use the gear as well as safety concepts. Finally you will make a first real scuba dive accompanied with a dive instructor to ensure a safe. Fun and exciting experience.

Arne Compagner
Nicole van Dijk
www.SeriouslyBlue.com
Phone: (+34) 661 018 162

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I just called Telefonica to move my telephone line as I am moving from Estepona to Marbella. No problem. 60 odd euros and it would take 15 to 20 days !!! If they had said within a week would have been ok, but two to three weeks ??? The service of this company is so terrible and never ceases to surprise me.

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If you are planning to travel to Andalucia in 2010, try not to miss the fabulous festivals and ferias which are held every year in Malaga, Seville, Huelva, Jaén, Almeria, Granada, Cordoba and Cadiz.

Some of the most popular annual festivals in Andalucia include:

Malaga Feria and the San Bernabé Feria Marbella
During the Feria de Málaga, the city comes alive with colour and life. All the locals join in the revellery and the streets fill with traditional costume, live music, flamenco and food stalls dishing up typical Andalucian cuisine. Tourists are welcome to join in the fun and many do.

During the day Málaga’s city centre is transformed, with horses carrying people dressed in typical costume through the streets. Thousands of locals and visitors dress up and line the streets and decorated food stalls offer local delicacies (which should be accompanied by a vino fino (sherry) or a sweet Malaga wine) and there’s plenty of music and dancing.

In the evening the real de la feria (the feria proper) shifts south-west of the centre to Cortijo de Torres, with more than 200 pavilions open to the public, each hosted by a different local group or association. Nights are dedicated to flamenco dance and music, including peña music groups, pop and flamenco bands and competitions. The port is lit up by a firework display, turning the city into an explosion of light and colour.

Every year Marbella pays homage to its patron saint, San Bernabé, with a week of festivities. Music, dancing and locals in traditional dress fill the plazas and streets of the old town.

The festival starts in the Paseo Marítimo with a fireworks display. The last day is the most important, with a procession in the morning to commemorate the Reconquista, or Reconquest. This was led by the Spanish monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella, who expelled the Moors and regained control of the kingdom. In the afternoon, there is a second procession in honour of San Bernabé.

The Feria de Abril Seville
One of the biggest annual ferias in Andalucia is held in Seville every April, and the Feria de Abril is attended by thousands of visitors every year. La Feria de Sevilla began as a cattle trading fair in 1847, and through the years it has evolved into a sexy Spanish round-the-clock spectacle of flamenco, bullfighting and rowdy fun. If you are looking for the ´real Spain´ you will find it in the passion of Seville, which is considered the home of flamenco music and culture.

Most of the feria festivities take place on the far side of the Rio Guadalquivir, in a place called the Real de la Feria. This rectangular piece of land is about a mile long and 700 yards wide. The tents, called casetas, are made of brightly-striped canvas and decorated with thousands of paper lanterns. While this set-up was originally created for the cattle market, today the casetas are temporary dance halls and each evening you’ll find flamenco music and dancing from around 9pm to 6 or 7 the following morning. The women all wear spectacularly bright Gypsy-inspired flamenco dresses, and everyone -young and old- throws back a glass or two of sherry and gets down and dirty on the dance floor.

Semana Santa in Malaga and Seville
Holy Week or Easter has been one of the most important celebrations in Seville for centuries. During holy week the Cofradías (Brotherhoods or Fraternities) process in penitence through the (many narrow) streets of the city, from their church to the Cathedral and back, taking the shortest possible route, as decreed in the rule of the ordinances.  Starting on Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), and ending on Domingo de Resurrección (Easter Sunday), there are 57 brotherhoods that pay the religious visit to the Cathedral of Seville, the third largest Cathedral in the world and similar processions take place through the streets of Malaga.

Mojacar Moors and Christians Festival in Almeria
Held on the weekend closest to June 10th, the Mojacar Moors and Christians Festival is without doubt Almeria´s biggest festival. Not just because of the large participation from the town’s-folk who prepare for this event all year long, but also for the spectacular commemoration of the peaceful submission by the town to the Catholic Kings and the peaceful co-existence of the two cultures of the times. The festival always begins on a Friday with the opening of the Moorish and Christian camps (known respectively as ‘kabilas’ and ‘cuarteles’) and the festival continues uninterrupted until the final glorious parade on the Sunday evening.

The Pilgrimage of El Rocio Huelva
The pilgrimage of El Rocio is the most colourful event in Spain. About 1.5 million people from all over Andalucia walk, ride horses, ride carriages and tractors to the town of El Rocio, near the Doñana Park and pay homage to the Virgen del Rocio (also called La Paloma Blanca). The people are dressed in traditional Andalucian costumes, with flamenco style dresses with all the flounces for women, and the men with striped grey trousers, white shirts, and vests and jackets. It takes them at least 4 days to reach El Rocio.

So they have to camp out of doors on the way. In the morning they pray before starting out. While walking, they sing Andalucian songs. Then they prepare their lunch, with more singing and dancing to music. Then they take a nap and at 5 pm they are on their way again. At midnight the pilgrims pray and supposedly it is time to sleep, but the music continues well into the night. Many famous people take part in this pilgrimage. Every group belongs to a brotherhood and many of the brotherhoods have houses in El Rocio, where they can sleep and prepare their meals in a group. El Rocio is an enchanting and colourful event with a cast of more than a million people. The final act in El Rocio is the procession with the image of the Virgin.

Las Cruces de Mayo Cordoba
The Crosses of May is a spring festival which has been revived in recent years. Neighbourhoods and associations around the city set up crosses in public squares, covering and surrounding them with flowers. Some are quite elaborate. Music, dancing and drink accompany the festivities.

The Crosses Festival in Cordoba and other Andalusian cities has its roots in the celebration of the exuberance of life and its triumph over death following the Easter season–it is a massive, lively street party welcoming back the warm weather. The best crosses are worth seeing, and around a few of them there is still a traditional festive atmosphere, where some women wear colourful flamenco dresses, people drink chilled Montilla-Moriles wine and the most danced-to songs are “sevillanas”.

The Carnival of Cádiz
The Cádiz Carnival is one of the best-known carnivals in the world. The whole city participates in the carnival for more than two weeks each year, and the presence of this fiesta is almost constant in the city because of the rehearsals, recitals, and contests held throughout the year. This is a lively and vibrant festival, not for the faint-hearted.

Largely known as the wittiest people in Spain, the main characteristics of the carnival are acerbic criticisms, stinging sarcasm and parody. Other carnivals in Spain may stress the spectacular and the glamorous, but Cádiz distinguishes itself with the ingenuity and imagination of its carnival attire. Faces are often painted in place of masks, and visitors can get involved in the feria as easily as the residents. On the Saturday of the carnival, everyone wears colourful costumes, which are often related to aspects of current affairs and news. The Carnival of Cádiz is well known for its satirical groups of performers called chirigotas, whose music and lyrics are at the centre of the event.

Granada Festival of Music and Dance
The Granada Festival of Music and Dance is one of the most attractive summer events in Andalucia, and it proves popular with residents and tourists.

A real array of artistic activities, held at the city’s most emblematic locations. Concerts by major symphony orchestras at Carlos V Palace, dance and ballet at the open-air theatre in the Generalife Gardens, recitals at Patio de los Arrayanes in the Alhambra, morning concerts at churches and monuments around Granada, along with late-night flamenco and world music in the typical Albaicín and Sacromonte neighbourhoods, all bring thousands of people together every year, drawn by the magic of these spectacles, staged in unique settings. During these first days of summer, all this, along with Granada’s wonderful heritage, its monuments, gardens and history, fill the city and its visitors with a spirit of fiesta that grows year on year.

Whenever you plan to visit Andalucia, make the most of the incredible festivals, ferias and carnivals which bring colour, music and passion to the streets. Most major festivals are held annually, and whatever time of year you visit Andalucia there will be plenty of things to see and do.

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There is something special about the Costa del Sol during the winter months. The majority of tourists have gone home, the Christmas lights are festooned through the streets and the towns are decorated with colourful nativity displays.

But the best part for me is the cooler weather, and how lucky have we been this year? We enjoyed the sunniest October on record, and November and Early December has seen clear blue skies and crisp, cool evenings. Perfect!
Whether you are a fan of the great outdoors or prefer to spend your leisure time in the shopping centre or cinema, there are plenty of things to see and do in Andalucia and the Costa del Sol during winter.

Marbella to Ronda
Last year we enjoyed a long weekend in Ronda before Christmas and had the most fabulous time. Just an hour by car from Marbella and Puerto Banus, Ronda is well worth exploring when most of the tourists have gone home. Having arrived in this historical town on Saturday at midday, it was lively and bustling with locals going about their business. Remember if you are visiting Ronda in winter to take a thick jacket or coat as the winter weather can be a lot colder than it is on the coast. Likewise in summer it is much warmer.

We explored the town and marvelled at the famous Ronda Gorge, before taking a trip around the Bandit Museum and on to the bullring, which is the oldest in Spain, and still represents ornate and intricate decoration from a bygone age. Visitors can stroll around the museum and take a full tour of the bullring. Ronda is well known for being the birthplace of many famous bullfighters. Antonio Ordoñez was one of Ronda´s most famous bullfighting sons.  Born in the town in 1932, he made his first public appearance as a bullfighter in 1948 and in 1951, aged just 19, he fought in Madrid. In a glittering career, Ordoñez faced over 1000 bulls. He finally retired in 1968, having fought over 60 bullfights in that year alone.

To enjoy the best views from Ronda, you can either look over the imposing Gorge, or take a stroll down to the fabulous viewpoint beside the Parador de Ronda, beside the open air auditorium.  As I looked over the plains surrounding Ronda, I could understand why this was once ideal terrain for bandits to roam.

Roaming the Ronda tapas bars
At lunchtime we did a tour of the tapas bars in town. Most of the best tapas bars in Ronda are situated around Church Square (take one of the narrow streets upwards on the other side of the bullring) and you will find plenty of great bars and cafés). Our favourite is the Venencia, which has a sister restaurant in Marbella, and offers a fantastic range of tasty food at amazing prices.  We ordered tapas of seafood salad, Manchego cheese, Serrano ham, lentil stew, octopus salad and warm Spanish omelette, plus four beers and the bill came to €11.50. In other words, lunch for 4 for under €15.  Try doing that in Marbella or Puerto Banus.
Wherever you go in Ronda you will feel as if you are really experiencing old Spain (apart from the numerous gift shops on the main road perhaps). The people are warm and friendly, the food is delicious and cheap and the whole atmosphere, particularly in winter is warm and welcoming.

Hotel Molino del Puente, Ronda
We stayed last year at the superb Hotel Molino del Puente, which is a converted olive mill on the Ronda-Seville Road. Situated just ten minutes past Ronda, it is set by a stream, and offers visitors a wonderful setting. With just ten bedrooms, you can enjoy excellent service at this family run hotel, and superb food. If it´s on the menu, try the rack of lamb or the fillet of sea bass which is literally the best we have eaten anywhere in Spain.

The room are spacious with satellite TV and the bathrooms boast Moroccan baths (for 2) with rustic furniture and decoration. The restaurant is elegant and stylish, and a real fire is lit in the centre of the room in winter to give visitors a warm glow (or was that the Rioja?)  All in all a fabulous place to stay, and there´s also a swimming pool for travellers who visit during the warmer months. www.hotelmolinodelpuente.com

On our way back from Ronda last year we drove back in what can only be described as a snow storm. It only lasted ten minutes, until we descended slightly further down the mountain, but the snow had settled on the hilltops all around, and it was absolutely beautiful. Local children were making the most of the unexpected bonus of snow and sledging down the hillsides on everything from sheets of tarpaulin to tea trays!

The Sierra Nevada and winter sports Spain
If you enjoy winter sports, there is no better place to visit than the Sierra Nevada. Situated near Granada and boasting some of the best ski slopes in Spain, this is a must for more adventurous visitors to the Costa. Sierra Nevada is just a two hour drive from Marbella, and offers great facilities for the kids. Whether you choose to stay in Granada, and visit the incredible Alhambra Palace, or reserve a room in the Sierra Nevada, you will not be disappointed. Our family tend to go for a day at a time, as most of us live on the Costa del Sol and it´s an easy drive up and down, giving you a full day if you leave early in the morning. Whether you are a novice or an experienced skier, you can enjoy the facilities at the Sierra Nevada, and feel safe in the knowledge that the children are being looked after in one of the ski schools or crèches. For more information check out www.sierranevada.co.uk

El Refugio de Juanar, Marbella
Staying a bit closer to home, El Refugio de Juanar, at Ojen, near Marbella is another wonderful place to visit during wintertime. This nature reserve sits high above Marbella, but takes just 15 minutes to reach by car from the town centre. Surrounded by flora and fauna, visitors can walk through the mountains to the viewpoint overlooking Marbella. On clear days you will be able to see across the Mediterranean Sea to the African coast of Morocco before you. The rock of Gibraltar stands out towards the south west. If you look east you might be able to see the snowy summit of Sierra Nevada ski resort that is in Granada province. If you are feeling fit, follow the signs for the Juanar Mountain, with its cross at the top. We climbed this a few years ago and it took about 2 hours – but don´t attempt it if you are unfit as it gets very steep near the top.

Cruz means cross in Spanish. There is a cross on the top of this mountain, hence its name. There is a legend that a fishing boat got lost in thick fog, and the men onboard had no idea in which direction to head towards the beach. The fog cleared for a second and one of the men saw the tip of the Juanar Mountain. This saved their lives as they managed to head home. In gratitude they planted a big black steel cross up on top of the Juanar Mountain, which is now known as the “Cross of Juanar”. There is a pilgrimage up the mountain once a year and mass is said under the cross.

After a good walk, there is no better place to relax than the El Refugio de Juanar Hotel, with its roaring log fires and comfortable sofas. If you want to stay over, room rates are very reasonable and the menu features plenty of local dishes including seasonal game, partridge, rabbit and pheasant and some delicious fish and vegetarian dishes. For more information, take a look at www.juanar.com

The Salon Varietes Fuengirola
If you are looking for something more homely during wintertime on the Costa del Sol, you can find plenty of restaurants and bars serving special dishes for the cooler months, including stews, casseroles and hot mulled wine to add to the winter feel in southern Spain. Many British visitors to the Costa del Sol at Christmas are surprised and delighted to discover the Salon Varietes in Fuengirola hosts a pantomime every December, and this year´s show is The Christmas Stocking. Check out the website for more details of other upcoming productions: www.salonvarietestheatre.com
Spanish style Christmas

The majority of Spanish people celebrate Christmas with their families on Christmas Eve, before going to Midnight Mass. Although Santa Claus is popular with Spanish kids, it is the massive Three Kings Celebration which really counts on the 6th January. This is when the children get their presents, supposedly from the Three Kings who parade through the streets on the evening of the 5th January to bring gifts. This is a procession well worth seeing, and whether you have children or not, you will enjoy the colourful parade of floats that winds around the streets of every major town, as the kings throw sweets to onlookers.

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